How the palm-size sweet treat is made.
we break down all the components, stories, and techniques behind a restaurant’s...well...dish that we’re obsessed with right now.
A specific craving hit chefs Mogan Anthony and Seleste Tan, right around Lunar New Year, in February 2021. They yearned for the kuih they grew up eating in Malaysia: palm-size snacks, both savory and sweet, that are often made with glutinous rice and feature local ingredients like coconut and pandan. Traveling back home was out of the question .
They steamed serimuka, a pandan custard cake with a sticky-rice crust, and whipped up mango curd pudding, and began driving into the city and selling them out of the trunk of their SUV. Anthony and Tan grew a strong following , and as the city began to open, they wanted to make their temporary project a more permanent endeavor. In February, they opened, a decidedly Southeast Asian sweets shop in the East Village.
In Malaysia, the kuih was once prized during special occasions because of its tortoise shape, which represents longevity and good fortune in Chinese tradition. Now it’s enjoyed as an everyday snack there, and Tan and Anthony sell it every weekend at Lady Wong. The angku kuih has become one of the most popular sweets at the shop—and for good reason.“It has a clay-like texture,” Anthony explains. “Unlike traditional pastry, which bounces back when you press into it, this holds an imprint.
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