The art-straunt is experiencing a giddy revival in Manhattan, and Iwan Wirth’s Manuela, stuffed to the brim with museum-quality works, is about to reset the standard.
“I couldn’t believe it,” he told me this week, visibly ecstatic as he remembered that first visit. “It’s like the first time you see the sea. That just never left me. And I thought, Once I’m a grown-up, I’d love to own the Kronenhalle.” Wirth is one of the world’s most successful art dealers, with his name on 21 Hauser & Wirth galleries across the globe, but a few years ago he started opening restaurants too.
Clemente’s artwork is everywhere—a gigantic mural behind the bar, a fresco as you walk up the stairwell, and then a suite of watercolors framed on your left as you make it into the room. The food and drink on offer ain’t too shabby either. I ordered a martini with a lot of things that aren’t supposed to be in a martini—green curry, saffron, vodka. To my shock, it was fantastic.
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