See every look from Thebe Magugu's spring 2023 collection:
Thebe Magugu put on his first-ever women’s runway show in London’s Victoria and Albert Museum last Friday. In the cavernously grand Raphael Room, Magugu’s audience watched avidly as models wearing his bright, neat trouser suits, happy-looking graphic prints, and dippily-swishing knife-pleated skirts emerged from a giant pink checkered laundry bag installation at the end of the gallery.
The appeal of Magugu’s brand is tuned into the life-affirming, upbeat international frequency of fashion—lots of pinks and vibrant reds for spring, classily sexy cutaway ribbed knit dresses, caped tracksuits. But there are deeper dimensions to Magugu’s work than immediately hits the eye, as everyone realizes who’s followed his Paris presentations, and watched his absorbing videos about his Johannesburg family, friends, and culture. So, too, this time.
Dunusa, he explains, “translates as ‘Bend Over,’ because that’s what everyone does to rummage.” We watch him retrieving handfuls of men’s ties , salvaging cargos and jeans, and sports tops and track pants in the middle of the graying heaps and the frantic chaos of hagglers and traders. Then, back in his studio, he begins reworking the garments. “What I wanted was to invert Veblen’s theory, to turn it into a trickle-up theory.
In fact, Magugu’s elevation of elements and signifiers of South African style—like the ‘fish and chips’ print , the photoshopped texture of mohair blankets, and his caped-back bright red track suit—aren’t made of materials from the market. In order to survive as a business—and to operate Thebe Magugu as a label that sells globally—the designer has struggled with problems that have made him rethink his sourcing. “No one is talking about South Africa’s extreme energy crisis.
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