Ahead of Daniel Lee's debut show at Burberry, where the designer will rework the very idea of Britishness, a look at how the brand became synonymous with the country that birthed it.
Now, with Daniel Lee at the helm, Burberry’s new campaign is attempting to do that same two-step it did twenty years ago. Older and middle aged, white customers can identify with images of national treasure Vanessa Redgrave grinning in Trafalgar Square and Liberty Ross leaning against a black Land Rover Defender.
At the same time, Burberry is aiming to bring in a younger and more diverse audience with a figure like rapper and record mogul Shygirl–who appeared last year in awearing full nova check in homage to Westbrook’s “chavtastic” fit. Gen-Z consumers and millennial designers like Lee likely don’t remember Westbrook at all, and they certainly don’t have the same hangups about fake and all-over nova that their parents did. In the age of all-over logos and luxury streetwear, the tackier the better.
“This new era of Britishness includes everyone,” says Arooj Aftab, a fashion diversity and inclusion consultant who has been closely watching the rollout of Lee’s vision for Burberry. Aftab noted that before Lee’s arrival, when Riccardo Tisci served as creative director from 2017 to 2022, the brand had already made gestures toward a more inclusive vision of Britishness by casting more diverse runway models and dressing footballer and racial justice campaigner Marcus Rashford.
Meanwhile, Lee has bet big on a new Burberry for a diverse Britain. While the country may be divided around the monarchy, the Prime Minister, and the economy, perhaps Burberry, that old British standby, is something the United Kingdom can actually unite around.
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