The untold story of London's original fast food

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The untold story of London's original fast food
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Despite London being a global food capital, many will be surprised to learn that eels have been a locally sourced component of its table for hundreds of years.

In the 1740s, pleasure boaters would jauntily sail from central London down the River Thames to an islet once known as Twickenham Ait in Richmond, mooring at an inn that had built a reputation across the city for selling just one thing: eel pies.

By the 1930s, a total of 14 eel and pie shops carried the M. Manze name across London, but these days, only three remain, with the traditionally fronted building with dark green awning and Union Jack flags at 87 Tower Bridge Road the oldest survivor. And, according to its regulars, it is London's original fast food take-away.

Eel pies are no longer made or sold, and sales of both jellied and stewed eels are in steep decline. M.

"European eels once thrived in London's rivers, but the number of young joining the adult populations has dropped dramatically since the 1980s," Nicholls said."Data suggests the numbers arriving each year has decreased by more than 90% compared to the 1960-1979 average."This is a familiar lament in wildlife terms.

To date, 18 sites – the largest elver monitoring scheme within a single catchment in the UK – have been created, and

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