What makes Hannah Ziskin's cake at Quarter Sheets so extraordinary, plus L.A.'s great next lunch destination
, the nearly 2-year-old pizza restaurant in Echo Park she runs with partner Aaron Lindell, you understand why she deserves the accolade. One of 11 honorees nationwide, Ziskin won the recognition on the strength of her genius ways with cake.The greatness of these layered, ever-changing creations is uncanny, almost aberrant. It’s just cake! But no, it’s more: It’s the sum of Ziskin’s imagination and experience, funneled into America’s edible synonym for celebration.
While unfastening the corners of its cardboard box, I gaped at the thing’s beauty. Ziskin — like many of her micro-bakery peers, including local cake virtuosos Sasha Piligian and Rose Wilde — had approached cake decorating almost as floral arrangement. They recalled Michel Bras’ famous “gargouillou” of vegetables
There are few happier occasions in the life of the food-focused than when a first bite of something seemingly familiar transcends all expectation. I did not know that a construct called “carrot cake” could be this lush, this intricate, this dense with pleasure.
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