'(Selvaggio Blu) is now one of Europe’s most attractive trekking routes – and I can tell you it may be the hardest. Starting with finding the route, which is frankly sort of difficult.'
In the morning light, the view of Cala Biriola from the campsite can’t be put into words. — Photos: FLORIAN SANKTJOHANSER/dpa
It is now one of Europe’s most attractive trekking routes – and I can tell you it may be the hardest. Starting with finding the route, which is frankly sort of difficult. We leave our harnesses and helmets in our backpacks at the start and hike through the scrub growth known locally as the maquis, along a sandy path. You see holm oaks clawing their way into the karst, a distinctive limestone landscape. There are red berries dangling from mastic bushes. Metallic blue lizards dart and scurry into patches of wild rosemary.
Hikers have slept on the beach in the past, though even then that was against the rules, but at the time there were so few people that nobody took much notice. Then suddenly Selvaggio Blu became famous in 2011, thanks to reporting by broadcasters and an Italian alpine club magazine. The numbers soared.Together with other guides, he proposed a set of rules to the authorities and six years ago, the national park authority set up campsites, each for a maximum of 40 hikers per night.
We would be struggling by this point at the latest, were it not for the aid of our mountain guide. And the key section of the day still lies ahead: Our first rock face descent, or rappel. But the next day I get plenty of opportunities to improve my technique and style, thanks to the seven rappels, ending with the highest. I am now a lot faster at belaying and I am not getting all tangled and flustered. And my sinking feeling gives way to joyful anticipation. We buzz downward and it is almost a routine.From one cave to the next
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