Your insider’s guide to the best dishes in Lisbon, Portugal, from cod fritters to custard tarts to piri-piri chicken and more.
Elemental and unpretentious, Portuguese cooking is born from homes, farms, and fishermen. At its best, it tastes of the sun, olive oil, onions, and ocean. In summer and fall, Lisbon’s markets brim with figs that taste of honey and peaches dense with juice. In winter, downtown praças smell of roasting chestnuts. And in June, sardines sizzle along narrow streets to honor Lisbon's patron saint, António. Chances are, you has visited Lisbon in recent years.
At Cantina das Freiras, a self-service canteen on the second floor of an unmarked building in the Baixa, a cozy sopa is almost always on the three-course $7 prix-fixe lunch menu. Tourists have discovered this hideaway, but it’s mostly frequented by Portuguese. Everything is cooked by nuns, with proceeds going to charity. Salt-Baked Fish at Porto Santa MariaEstrada do Guincho, Cascais,+351 21 487 9450If given a say, my last great meal will resemble what’s on offer at Porto Santa Maria.
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