The T-shirt, Beloved by All, Gets a New Look

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The T-shirt, Beloved by All, Gets a New Look
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Read CathyHoryn's final review from ParisFashionWeek: 'One standard of fashion is to create a look that people instantly want to wear. This is actually something hard to achieve, but two designers did it this season'

There’s no telling how many women, of any age, will look at Prada’s triple-layered T-shirt minidresses in shades of gray or beige and shown with low-heeled, open-toe boots and say, “I want to look like that.” Prada extended the proposal to include zip-front windbreakers worn as dresses or as a loose, unzipped layer over a T-shirt set and a tube skirt.One reason that Miu Miu, as well as the Prada label this season, gets so quickly under the skin is she doesn’t design collections around a theme.

The costume curator Olivier Saillard once observed that the T-shirt is the most ubiquitous and contemporary of styles, even modern, and yet he wondered why high-fashion designers didn’t embrace it instead of the far-fetched styles they usually do. Prada has provided the modern answer to that question.

Among the best looks in the collection was a suit in a textured black crepe, the jacket with a slightly nipped waist and the skirt easy and somewhat full. “It’s getting hotter and hotter,” Danan said, “and we want looks that don’t feel so heavy and structured.” Yet the beauty of the suit is that it had just enough structure somehow. Also strong were a black knit tank dress shown with a spare black leather jacket and a strapless summer gown in crinkled ivory crepe.

Manipulating scale was a thread in the collection. There were zippers and pulls of varying sizes, bows and pouch pockets, too. But Ghesquière used scale cleverly and minimally and seemed conscious of reflecting the tendency nowadays to elevate ordinary objects. Indeed, the clothes and the accessories had a strong sense of being treated as prized objects, which is a valid expression.

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