Jorge Dionicio worked as a supervisor at a Cheesecake Factory in the early aughts. Now he's quietly building a following at the Upper East Side sushi restaurant Hiramasa
Chef Jorge Dionicio at Hiramasa, in Manhattan. Photo: Caroline Tompkins Hiramasa is a small Upper East Side sushi restaurant in the 90s that sits across Madison Avenue from a J.McLaughlin store and an almost cartoonishly charming little bookshop that looks as if it exists in a fairy tale. Most nights, the six seats at Hiramasa’s upstairs counter are filled with neighbors and seafood lovers who have heard there’s something special happening at this under-the-radar sushi spot.
The approach and his appreciation for customs have helped Dionicio build a small but dedicated following in the seven months since Hiramasa opened. The prices have helped, too: Dionicio typically charges $125 for a ten-piece tasting menu, which is not cheap, but within the rarefied world of high-roller Manhattan sushi, the price — and even the $225 he charges for a 20-to-24 “grand omakase” on weekends — is a relative bargain.
Eventually, he spent a year working in Tokyo, where he completed training at the World Sushi Skill Institute, at one point placing seventh in Tokyo’s World Sushi Cup. Dionicio says it was in Japan where he began to fully understand the intricacies of top-tier sushi-making: “I can cut hamachi in three different ways, and each type of cut gives the fish a different taste.
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