The city may be overshadowed by its more glamorous neighbours, but it is marked by a gratifying independence
As you approach, you see a gleaming white city hidden within a bowl of low hills. Further in, you glimpse the medieval inner-town beyond not-so- busy ring roads.was reputedly named after a local Celtic god. That was a classic Pax Romana move: appease a conquered people by honouring their deity. Soon, it became a popular waypoint between Rome and the Iberian provinces.
With civilised prices that look bargainous when compared with those in Avignon or Aix en Provence, Nîmes is not an expensive city. If your room budget doesn’t go north of €100, you have plenty of options – and nice ones too. Into the old town, you take a journey from Roman-ness to the ultimate expression of Frenchness – the market. Les Halles des Nîmes is a gem: 74 stalls, including a couple of cafés and the emporium run by one of the Meilleur Ouvriers de France – a champion cheesemaker, Vincent Vergne. He is not hiding the fact, with a tricolour collar on his white chef’s jacket and patriotic red, white and blue trainers. But his is an eclectic and, indeed, international range.
Johannes is a Frenchman who went to Dallas and came second in the World Burger Championship, which is a bit like an American winning the award for best Champagne – or cheese. Having established his burger stall, Chez Jo, in Les Halles, he is due to open a bigger place in the old town soon.
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