As you approach the rumbling percussion of artillery echoes all around - it's the sound of a coming storm. Russia's advance is choking routes into this desperate place, which is at the epicentre of this war.
We see devastated shops, apartment blocks and even churches.The Kremlin has outsourced the fight here to the Wagner paramilitary group - they've sent wave after wave of infantry to try and capture this once thriving industrial hub.
It is also becoming clear that this gruelling fight, which began in August, is morphing into urban combat.Inside the city, we saw Ukrainian forces laying traps and bringing in reinforcements.Dymytro, a soldier from the Azov brigade, tells me the fight has become a David and Goliath battle of wits. "We are holding for now. We are standing with machine guns against tanks and we will see. As long as we have the spirit to fight, we will fight!" he says as gunfire rings out.
This city has become a symbolic prize for Russia, although it appears to be of small strategic value.We watch a group of men taking stock - microwaves and refrigerators - from their shop.Iryna says she stays because she has nowhere else. "People go to Dnipro and they shell Dnipro too, people died there, they hide there and there was a strike and people died, where should we go? It can land anywhere in
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