This article explores the impact of written recipes on American home cooking between 1924 and 2024. It delves into the challenges of identifying the most influential recipes, considering factors like reach, cultural impact, and the evolving definition of a 'recipe' itself. The article highlights examples of culinary innovations and discusses the enduring legacy of certain recipes on American palates.
Which written recipes have been the most influential, pivotal, or transformative for American home cooking between 1924 and 2024? — we expected strong opinions, but we didn't anticipate the philosophical quandaries that adjudicating and assembling them would bring up. After all, what or who confers “importance”? Our experts do, for one thing.
But we also determined it had to do with reach and scale, with the sense that a recipe represented a clear shift in some aspect of home cooking for some significant number of Americans. “American cooking”? Rightly and necessarily a sprawling thing made by immigrants, shaped by the push and pull of assimilation, separatism, and syncretism, utterly dependent on the open migration of flavors and ideas. Last, what even is a “recipe”? There are many excellent dishes from the past century that, upon examination, are innovations rather than discrete entities recorded for replication in the kitchen. Roasted Brussels sprouts, fajitas, chili crisp, and Spam musubi were all nominated and ultimately dismissed for this reason. “I don’t feel that I’m tooting my own horn here because all I did was change the name of the genius Parisian pastry chef Pierre Hermé’s creation. The cookie is a simple cocoa shortbread chock-full of chopped dark chocolate. But the reason I think the cookie was revolutionary is the salt. Today, we salt everything—it’s not unusual to find cookies with flaky salt scattered across the top. But when Pierre gave me the recipe in 1999 or 2000, the fact that you could taste the salt in each bite was startling. I think it’s lovely that people are still surprised by the cookie today. Because salt is a commonplace now, they might not know why they want to go back for seconds, but it doesn’t matter—they do.”Chinese,” wrote Buwei Yang Chao in the first great Chinese cookbook published in Americ
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