The Daniel Roth Tourbillon is everything a classic timepiece should be: elegant, original, fitting and infused with a deep sense of horological history.
I have always adored the Ellipsocurvex case from Daniel Roth. That is the name of the shape you see on these pages, although the brand now prefers to use a name that came before that: Double Ellipse. Half rectangle, half circle, it is a unique take on what a shape or form watch can be. Usually, anyone venturing outside the square, rectangle, or tonneau verges on the freakish. And yet, there is something fascinating about the quintessential Daniel Roth case.
In 1988, Daniel Roth set up shop on his own and re-created a version of his tourbillon calibre, based on blanks provided by Nouvelle Lemania. He fitted it into a case he created himself, one so specific it helped establish his name as a brand. Not only that, but he dressed it with a dial that went on to become his other signature: an off-centered subdial for the hours and minutes, forced up at 12 o’clock by the large tourbillon at 6 o’clock.
On the face of it, today’s Daniel Roth Tourbillon is a cleaned-up and up-to-speed variation of the 1990s version. Of course, the movement had to change, the original having become unavailable from the Breguet Manufacture, or Lemania for that matter. So, the manufacturing arm of Louis Vuitton, La Fabrique du Temps, led by horological legends Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, gave it a new engine that they christened calibre DR001. On the outside, i.e.
The case dimensions have slightly changed and the details are neater, but the essence is still here. Part of that is the mirror-polished long tourbillon bridge resting on pillars, which is the right kind of fan service. Another step in the right direction is the guilloché work, applied on the rose gold dial, which is also designed to revive nostalgia. The last one is something that pictures cannot show and that words cannot properly express: the singular pleasure in putting this watch on.
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