Spice blends have never just been for 'lazy' cooks, but a new generation is showing how crucial they are to any kitchen
, though that had as much to do with the backlash against food giant Goya’s CEO praising Donald Trump. “I’ve been pushing it for years and nobody was really buying it, then all of a sudden the Goya thing happens and people are buying it all the time now, which is dope,” he says.
, says her mala spice mix was inspired by a Sichuan chicken dish she made at private dining events, and that her whole company started as a way to bring the best flavors of China to America. “The best-quality stuff wasn’t making its way out [of China],” she says. “Wherever I traveled, I had to bring suitcases full of the chile peppers that we were using, and all the different spices, because ingredients make up everything in a food product.
It’s not just in America that spices mixes are considered cheats — ras el hanout is apparently nicknamed the “” in Morocco. But looking outside Western paradigms can show chefs how integral blends can be. “In Indian cuisine we use whole spices and blends, often in the same dish,” says Irani. It’s not uncommon for a dish to start with turmeric, red chile, cumin and coriander, and be finished with garam masala. It’s not a shortcut, but an ingredient that makes the dish what it is.
Irani hopes customers approach his blends with curiosity, but he also tries to educate people on the origins of the spices and why they go together. In Spicewalla’s “Taco Collection,” which comes with three spice blends, he takes care to explain the regional herbs and chiles that make the al pastor rub different from the pescado verde seasoning.
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