The Primal Pleasure and Brutal History of Sugar

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The Primal Pleasure and Brutal History of Sugar
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'No sugared association is stronger than that between sweetness and femininity... Women are honey, sweetheart, cupcake, candy girl, honeybunch — or they're tarts' — rubytandoh

found that anencephalic infants — babies born with much of their brain mass missing, and who rarely live longer than a few hours — reacted positively when a sweet substance was placed on their lips, and grimaced when given something bitter, even though they lacked the part of the brain typically responsible for taste.

It is also a pleasure contained in its own little box. For American and western European palates, sweetness occupies its own lonely niche in our cooking, sequestered and scrutinized. We have steaks and lobster rolls and quiche and potatoes and pizza ... and then dessert separately, afterward. We eat vegetables and milk and bread ... and then ice cream as a treat. Sugar is craved one moment, and controlled the next.

Food writer Yemisi Aribisala explained to me that Nigerian tastes demand sweet with an acidic counterbalance: “There won’t be any kind of dessert accompanying meals in most homes. People will snack on star apples or cashew fruits, almond fruits, or guavas. I can’t even bring to mind one common fruit that is like the European apple, with considerably more sweetness than tartness.”

Cotton takes the culture’s ready metaphors — the cotton candy cloud and the perky butt; a landscape of erect candy canes; a macaron-clad woman, good enough to eat — and magnifies them to the point of absurdity. And yet there’s no sense of subversion in this surrealness: In fact, Cotton plays directly and uncritically into the sexist tropes he portrays.

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