“Pies are sensitive! You have to be gentle, or else you lose control of the dough.”
It’s 11:00 a.m. in East Williamsburg, and Montrose Avenue smells like heaven. There are Dona Chai saffron doughnuts baking at Dun-Well, Kyoto-style ice coffees brewing at Brooklyn Ball Factory, and here, in an industrial studio lit only by natural light,Berger, 42, is the self-made baker and owner of Luckybird, an appointment-only baking studio that has quickly become an editors’ favorite—countas fans—since it launched two years ago.
Wiping her hands on an indigo recycled canvas apron, Berger shows me the results of her morning’s work: Two naked cakes—one lemon zest with vanilla bean whipped cream and fresh strawberries, the other dark chocolate with chocolate chip buttercream, topped with pale pink spray roses—those three dozen mini pies, and four large lattice and star-topped berry pies. “This is going to sound crazy,” she says, “but I make each one individually.
Not likely to happen to Berger, a former fashion buyer turned baking perfectionist. Before launching Luckybird, she spent an entire year making batch after batch of brownies to polish her version . The same goes for her lemon zest cake—happily sampled at roughly three wedding tastings each week—and that perfect pie crust, which was meticulously tweaked from arecipe.
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