Watch: anok_yai, KaiaGerber, Paloma Elsesser, and more talk candidly about fashion’s issues with diversity and representation.
The modeling industry has become a more inclusive space in recent years, but that doesn’t mean its diversity and representation issues have been fully addressed. Ask any of the young people who fill the runways, and they’ll tell you stories of being judged by their race, size, and background. In a business focused on the surface racism, fatphobia, and ableism can become part of the overarching culture.
Models of color face an especially difficult battle. Expected to represent their race at all times, they aren’t allowed the autonomy their peers receive. “It can’t be you’re an artist, [it’s] she’s a black artist,” says Anok Yai of the difference. “It makes you feel like the only reason you’re incorporated into the conversation is because you’re black.
Issues tied to race aren’t the only sources of tension. Size remains a fraught subject, even as opportunities for plus-size beauties have increased. In the industry’s highest echelons, tokenism runs rampant, while straight-size stars are still expected to live up to unrealistic standards. “It’s passive in the systemic way that being marginalized [by the] racism, fatphobia, and transphobia still exist and are so pervasive within this industry,” says Paloma Elsesser.
For all the ups and downs, modeling’s biggest names are hopeful for a future where designers, creative directors, and agencies use their influence to improve everyone’s situation. “All of this comes down to the industry,” says Akech. “They need to do what they need to do because they’ve heard these [discussions] so many times about what we don’t like and what needs to change.”
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