This soup was so good that it needed a name, and thus it was christened “Roberto.”
” author and Netflix star Samin Nosrat uses hers to amplify home cooks who make her airy Ligurian focaccia and bronzed buttermilk chicken; the whole month of December was full of the Los AngelesAs far as I can tell, patient zero for this style of re-sharing is the cookbook phenom Alison Roman, who for years now has dropped regular carousels of fans making her chocolate-chip shortbread cookies, her coconut-turmeric stew, her citrus-tiled salmon fillet, her roasted chicken with olives.
Earlier this week I called Roman, to fact-check my memory that the phenomenon originated with her. “It feels a little weird and arrogant to say ‘I came up with that,’ but I do think I came up with that!” she said, laughing. In late 2017, shortly after Roman’s first cookbook, “,” was published, her chocolate-chip shortbread cookies emerged as a wildly successful breakout recipe.
The effect, I can personally confirm, is exactly that. For those few months after “Dining In” was published, every time I opened Instagram and checked Roman’s account, I was pummelled with images of cookie after cookie after cookie: some were beautiful, some were wonky; some were lovingly bathed in sunshine, some were shakily snapped in the sallow glow of an oven.
Re-shared posts beget more posts to be re-shared, and the circles widen until, eventually, they collapse—or we collectively move on to some other recipe. It’s tempting to refer to these Instagram feedback loops as viral recipes, but the phrase doesn’t quite fit. “I actually take issue with the term ‘viral recipe,’ ” Roman told me.
In these surprisingly lovely Instagram flurries, in contrast, the food is quiet and human-scale. The photographs of Roman’s cookies or Turshen’s cake or my Roberto soup are just shorthand for the entire process of making the recipe, the hour or so that goes into assembling ingredients, following the steps, waiting, watching, hoping, and finally eating. And it’s not just mindless replication: as with any act of creation, the end result reflects a piece of whoever made it.
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