Cow’s milk has long been tied to sports—and to growing big and strong. But its consumption in the U.S. has been in decline for 70-plus years. Amid an increasingly crowded dairy section, can milk survive?
Milk was long a symbol of American goodness. “Uncle Sam wants you to drink more Dierolf’s milk,” as an ad put it in 1929. The message still resonated nine decades later, when a boy named Brady asked Michigan football coach Jim Harbaugh how much milk he should drink to grow up big enough to play quarterback. “As much as your little belly can hold,” Harbaugh replied.
Bol existed in a long, milk-intensive continuum of Philadelphia centers. Between Bol and Chamberlain was Moses Malone, who was allowed to play pickup hoops at Petersburg State Penitentiary in Virginia as a high schooler, honing his game against a person called the Milkman. When Maryland coach Lefty Driesell asked Malone why he was called the Milkman, Malone famously replied: “Because he murdered a milkman, man.
Elle Purrier milked cows before school on her family’s dairy farm in Franklin County, Vt., and when she didn’t finish her milk at dinner, Charlie and Annie Purrier told their daughter that the cows knew and were disappointed. The next morning, Elle felt the cows looking at her funny. “That really did the trick for me,” says the 27-year-old, in Flagstaff, Ariz., where she’s altitude training as one of the world’s premier middle-distance runners. Competing under her married name, Elle St.
If our modern Milk Nation had a flag, it would look like Neapolitan ice cream: bars of brown, white and pink, representing the primary flavors of the milk lover’s palate. Chocolate milk is by far the most popular milk among athletes now, offered as a postworkout recovery drink in locker rooms everywhere. Few Americans are as farm literate as St. Pierre. In a 2017 survey, 7% of Americans thought chocolate milk came from brown cows.
Lactose intolerance often sets in with age. Michael Phelps, who drank chocolate milk at his first Olympics, in Athens in 2004, appeared in ’20 on cartons of Silk soy milk and confessed to mixing almond milk into his smoothies. Milk isn’t just Biblical, after all, it’s Shakespearean. Lady Macbeth spoke of “the milk of human kindness,” suggesting milk is warmth and goodwill in beverage form. “There isn’t milk on the table every night like there used to be,” says St. Pierre, “but I kind of feel it will come back around.”
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