Lebanon’s new generation of winemakers is cultivating an emphatic sense of place.
Even if you're not an aficionado of Middle Eastern wines, you may have heard of Chateau Musar. Renowned for its opulent,, this winery put Lebanese wine on the map in the 1970s. For a long time, Musar was a lone success. However, since the mid-2000s, new winemakers have started to emerge who are set on creating a style they feel is more “Lebanese,” less driven by a European-influenced sensibility.
Other producers are championing native varietals, such as Merwah and Obaideh. Château Ksara launched its first 100 percent Merwah in 2017, a single-vineyard white with gentle notes of citrus and melon. Château Kefraya has gone further, testing a dozen native grapes including Assali el Arous, Inab el Mir, and Assouad Karech, as well as aging the wines in amphorae in a nod to the grapes’ Phoenician heritage.
It’s hard to discuss wine in Lebanon without eventually talking about war—everyone you meet has some kind of hair-raising tale to tell, and the conflict in Syria, which borders the country to the north and east, looms large. For every field planted with vines or vegetables in the Bekaa Valley, there is another dotted with refugee camps.
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