The Irish Pub Gets a Queer Makeover

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The Irish Pub Gets a Queer Makeover
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Mary’s Bar is now open in Greenpoint.

Mary’s has been open for just a few weeks, but strong word of mouth has already brought in a crowd.Mary’s has been open for just a few weeks, but strong word of mouth has already brought in a crowd.After Brendan Donohoue moved from Dublin to New York in 2006, he found a hospitality career that attracted many of his fellow expats: as a bartender at an Irish pub. In 2019, Donahue, who is gay, joined a company that managed a dozen bars, mostly in midtown — but it wasn’t a great fit.

in 2021, partnering with its founder, Sheila Frayne, after the Park Slope institution shuttered during the pandemic. “You’re preserving something that’s already done well,” Donohue says. “In a very good way, I feel like a steward.”, which opened the other week on the border of Greenpoint and East Williamsburg.

“A public house is meant to be a space that takes away all the other roles, and titles,” says Mary’s owner Brendan Donohue. “It’s a great equalizer in many respects.”Photographs byOn a recent rainy Sunday night, groups of twos and fours trickled through the heavy wooden doors, dumping their umbrellas before getting settled. “This is not necessarily a place for all the loud people,” says Donohue. “I don’t think that there’s that many places for people who are the quieter side of queer.

Most of the drinks at Mary’s are under $10 — an effort to keep everything accessible — and the first thing any bartender learns is how to properly pour a pint of Guinness: at an angle, wait, top it off, no bubbles. “If I see anybody put a glass down, pull the tab, and walk away as it fills up, I’ll cry,” says Donohue.

In Donohue’s view, the heart of an authentic Irish pub is complementary to the philosophy of queer spaces. At their best, both offer a place where you can come as you are without judgment and find community. “It’s a really lovely thing, to give people ownership of the space.” he says. “I don’t want division, I want connections. A public house that’s queer and Irish is probably one of the best places for that.

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