In Rome, when the evening is coming to an end, late-night diners skip kebabs and pizza to seek out brioche buns bursting with cream, Nutella-filled croissants, and doughnuts oozing with custard.
It’s midnight and Donatella is waiting in the queue at Il Maritozzaro in Rome’s Trastevere neighborhood. While her preteen son trails sulkily behind her, she is lit up with childlike excitement. “He’s complaining that he’s tired,” she says. “But that’s just because he hasn’t seen it yet.” This nocturnal adventure is an important family occasion: Donatella is bringing her son for his first ever maritozzo, a big, round brioche-type bun bursting with fresh cream.
This story played out in real time at Pasticceria Lambiase, across town from Il Maritozzaro and Il Cornettone. The business began as a standard daytime bakery, but when the kitchen fired up the ovens in the early morning, partygoers on the way home from nearby student bars would bang desperately on the doors of the laboratorio, lured by the sweet smell of the pastries. When the 4 a.m.
Even more than comfort food, Rome’s late-night pastries remind eaters that pleasure is an irrefutable core aspect of eating, with some incredibly overt implications about the joy they bring. Pasticceria Lambiase is better known by the name of its most iconic pastry, la sorchetta doppio schizzo, which literally translates to “the double-squirt pussy.” A thin disk of pastry that roughly fits into your palm, the sorchetta is finished with a squirt of cream and a drizzle of chocolate.
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