A Daily Mail investigation reveals the troubling global supply chains behind popular supplements and beauty products, exposing animal welfare and conservation concerns, alongside weak scientific evidence.
Britons spend an estimated £3.5 billion annually on dietary supplements and beauty products, driven by promises of glowing skin, better health, and longevity. Collagen powders, krill oil, bee venom serums, and other natural remedies have become staples of the booming wellness industry, fueled by social media influencers, celebrity endorsements, and bold health claims.
However, while consumers carefully examine calorie counts and ingredient lists, few question where these ingredients originate. A Daily Mail investigation has uncovered complex global supply chains stretching from the Antarctic to the Amazon rainforest and across Africa, behind some of the fastest-growing products. Several ingredients have drawn criticism from conservationists and animal welfare groups due to their impact on vulnerable species and ecosystems.
These include remedies made from the skin of butchered donkeys, high-street collagen powders, trendy krill oil, bee venom, and shark-derived cosmetics. At the same time, experts argue that the scientific evidence supporting many health and beauty claims is far weaker than marketing suggests, with many products offering little proven advantage over cheaper or more conventional alternatives. One of the most controversial ingredients is ejiao, a dark gelatinous substance made by boiling donkey hides.
Promoted as a beauty booster, a remedy for anemia, and even a longevity tonic, ejiao has become one of the fastest-growing products in the global wellness market. It is sold in supplements, drinks, and confectionery, and is available in the UK through third-party sellers on Amazon and other online retailers.
A recent investigation by Brooke Action for Working Horses and Donkeys found dozens of ejiao products on Amazon UK, including ejiao snacks for £19 per 100g, ejiao powder for £19 per 250g, and ejiao tea for £16.58. Despite this, the UK Food Standards Agency warns that products containing ejiao should not be allowed into the UK, recommending strict import audits.
Moreover, experts say there is little credible evidence for the health claims. Dr. Anthony Booker, a reader in ethnopharmacology at the University of Westminster, notes that the quality of evidence is poor and most claims are scientifically unsupported. There are limited high-quality clinical trials showing some benefit for symptoms associated with certain types of anemia compared to placebo, but they do not demonstrate superiority to standard treatment.
Claims that ejiao can treat cancer, improve cardiovascular health, or extend lifespan are especially unsupported or exaggerated. Dr. Booker advises consumers to treat marketing claims with skepticism. Despite the weak evidence, demand continues to rise. Brooke estimates that around six million donkeys are slaughtered annually for ejiao, and warns that without intervention, donkeys in Africa could be wiped out.
As China's donkey population declined, manufacturers turned to Africa, where the booming trade fuels theft, illegal slaughter, and loss of animals essential for transport and livelihoods. Another problematic ingredient is squalene, derived from shark livers, used in anti-aging creams, serums, and lipsticks for its moisturizing properties. While many brands now use plant-derived squalane from olives or sugar cane, conservationists warn that shark-derived squalene persists in some products, targeting deep-sea species like gulper sharks.
These sharks have oil-rich livers containing up to 70% squalene. Gulper sharks grow slowly, live for decades, and produce few offspring, making them highly vulnerable to overfishing.
Consequently, in some regions, gulper shark populations have declined by over 80% in the past two decades, leading to their protection under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species. Campaigners estimate that about one-fifth of global cosmetic squalene still comes from sharks, requiring approximately 3,000 sharks to produce a single tonne of squalene. At the height of the trade, an estimated six million sharks were killed annually for this purpose.
The sustainability of such practices is highly questionable, and consumers are increasingly urged to check labels for plant-based alternatives. Additionally, ingredients like bee venom and krill oil raise similar concerns. Bee venom is harvested by stimulating bees to sting a glass plate, which can stress colonies already threatened by pesticides and diseases. Krill oil, marketed for heart health, involves harvesting tiny crustaceans from the Antarctic, which are a key food source for whales, penguins, and seals.
Overharvesting could disrupt the entire ecosystem. The scientific backing for these products also tends to be thin, with many benefits extrapolated from small studies or traditional use. In summary, the wellness industry's rapid growth has led to questionable sourcing and exaggerated claims. Consumers are advised to research ingredients, seek evidence-based products, and consider the broader impact of their purchases on animals and the environment
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