Pierre Cartier allowed undecided clients to take jewels home with them for a few days, confident that they would find it hard to return them
of 40, Louis-François Cartier had not only risen from poverty to open his own jewellery shop in Paris, he had seen it through revolution and a coup d’état, economic doldrums and a fire. Fiscal prudence and pragmatism were vital virtues, he considered, and he instilled them in his son and grandsons. He also imparted a less routine lesson: “Be very kind.
Pierre, meanwhile, had an innate grasp of markets and motivation. He allowed undecided clients to take jewels home with them for a few days, confident that they would find it hard to return them—even when the piece in question was the legendary Hope Diamond. In 1916 he traded a pearl necklace for the town house on Fifth Avenue that remains the company’s American headquarters.
The jewels themselves are stupendous: gems the size of birds’ eggs, rope upon rope of perfectly matched pearls, whimsical creations such as the panthers that became synonymous with the Duchess of Windsor. Ms Cartier Brickell is alert to their diverse connotations, from love letter to grovelling apology to glaring status symbol. In occupied France, a brooch depicting a caged bird sat as a protest statement in Cartier’s flagship shop in Rue de la Paix.
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