The Food of Taiwan, and Home, at Wenwen

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The Food of Taiwan, and Home, at Wenwen
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Five orders of BDSM Chicken—a whole bird, deep-fried—are offered beginning at 5 p.m. at Wenwen. People start lining up at 4:30; by 5:05, they’re gone.

You’d be forgiven for assuming that a dish called BDSM Chicken, at Wenwen, a new Taiwanese restaurant in Greenpoint, is a marketing ploy—in not only its name but also its availability, or lack thereof. One order is a whole bird, deep-fried, and just five are offered each day, beginning at 5But this scenario of scarcity was not intentional on the part of the chef Eric Sze and his business partner Andy Chuang, who own Wenwen as well as the restaurant 886, in the East Village.

Experiments commenced at 886, using what are known as “yellow fat chickens,” sourced from Flushing Live Poultry, which are fed a diet high in beta-carotene. The result was a resounding success, and “a spectacle,” Sze said, an obvious centerpiece of any Wenwen meal. But frying a whole chicken requires a whole fryer. Wenwen was set up with only two fryers, and the kitchen wouldn’t be able to produce the rest of the menu with just one.

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