A tradition immortalized by Jonathan Gold, who once wrote that “a burrito is a Chicano thing, a Los Angeles thing, proudly Mexican American,” this city has expressed its love of burritos through a number of typical styles (via eaterla)
Chicano, or pocho, burritos became famous for their alchemic fusion of refried beans and cheese. But in reality it was those two ingredients combined with the holy trinity of Mexican stews: chile verde, chile colorado, and steak picado, along with rice, beans, sour cream, pico de gallo, and guacamole, that set them apart.
as many as 12,500 street food vendors in greater Los Angeles. They don’t all serve tacos and burritos, but taken collectively these often unheralded vendors comprise the majority of LA’s dynamic Mexican food scene. Often the best taco truck or burrito stand is the one that sits within someone’s neighborhood, though invariably arguments erupt over who serves the best carne asada or al pastor in a particular pocket of the city. There will never be total agreement, and that’s part of the fun.
In LA, the neighborhood taco truck doesn’t even have to be mobile. La Estrella, for instance, parks its truck full-time on the same stretch of sidewalk in Highland Park. It’s about a certainof Mexican food that’s centered on a griddled roster of proteins and available as burritos, tacos, quesadillas, or tortas. Many trucks, stands, or takeaway menus appear similar, but individuality can come through in location or the care a particular outfit takes with its technique.
There are taco specialists like Carnitas El Momo for pork, Birrieria Gonzalez for birria, and Tacos Los Palomos for al pastor. But for most of LA, a sturdy, usually inexpensive burrito filled with griddled meat and an array of fillings and toppings can be found everywhere at all hours of the day. Often, making friends with the folks at your local spot is the surest way to get the “best” burrito in town — plus, it’s a great way to get to know a community even more deeply.
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