We've got a lot of unpacking to do.
for the neighborhood potluck. As you stir, the plump elbows surrender to the thick, creamy orange cheese sauce. The voluptuous, squishy sound of walking barefoot through mud promises success. A top layer of grated cheese, browned to a golden crust, will add the final irresistible allure to this quintessentially American dish.
A recipe calling for “vermachelly” from Edward Kidder’s 1720 cookbook was copied into an anonymous Virginian family manuscript. In 1747, best-selling British cookbook author Hannah Glasse presented two English-style vermicelli pudding recipes as well as instructions on how to make vermicelli from scratch.
The perpetuation of macaroni and cheese became the legacy of Black women cooks. From the moment they came to dominate the workforce of the kitchens of elite families of the American South, sister to sister, wise woman to novice, they were the gatekeepers of this tradition, the authorities overseeing the maintenance and proliferation of the tradition through the skillful application of their profession. These are the cooks responsible for spreading the good news of creamy macaroni and cheese.
Previously, American pasta was not made with durum wheat, the high protein grain that semolina is made from. However, in 1898, the US Department of Agriculture set out to change that, and, under the tutelage of Mark Alfred Carleton, durum wheat was successfully grown on a commercial scale in the US. The timing couldn’t have been better given the events that were in store in the coming decades.
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