How did Connecticut’s second largest city become ground zero for some of the best pizza in the United States? Just what is New Haven-style pizza?
There is pizza, and then there is apizza. New Haven-style pizza is the latter; a hotter, crispier, and dirtier descendant of Neapolitan style pie. What ribs are to Kansas City, cheesesteak to Philadelphia, and crabcakes to Baltimore, pizza is to New Haven. If you grew up in or around the Elm City, your pizza parlor allegiance can be fierce.
First, a bit of history. At the turn of the twentieth century, New Haven became a popular town for Italian families who settled in the United States during the country’s diaspora. Neighborhoods such as Wooster Square became home to many displaced southern Italian families primed with palates that appreciated the thin-crusted Neapolitan style pizza of their homeland.
What makes New Haven-style pizza inimitable goes much deeper than the charred, thin-crusted oblong pies of Wooster Street. New Haven has its own pizza patois and signature moves. Here’s a lexicon to help you decipher them:The word “apizza” is itself a distinguishing characteristic of New Haven. The “a” is a harbinger of the Italian dialect spoken in the Naples region.
Three families bequeathed New Haven with a hat trick of Italian American pizza parlors and a legacy that inspires imitation., known simply as Pepe’s, was the first to open on Wooster Street in 1925,on Wooster Street in 1938. As pizzerias come and go, none have risen to the level of these big three, although a few notable spots come close, such as the new kid
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