To Julia Usher, a cookie is more than an edible object: It’s a blank canvas for stunning, three-dimensional sculptures
What might save the 3-D cookie from the fate of other passing trends in sweets, like the cupcake, is the very thing that could discourage casual home bakers to the form: its difficulty. And a 3-D cookie is so time intensive , that it’d be nearly impossible to base one’s entire business model solely only selling these creations.
Of course, the use of a cookie centerpiece is not new. “3-D stuff’s been happening for quite a long time if you go back to gingerbread houses,” Usher says. “I think what’s different now is you’re seeing them take on other forms,” Usher says, “and being shaped in different ways, not just plainer flat 2-D cookies being built into a 3-D structure.
If I really wanted to understand what was happening with 3-D cookies, Usher insisted that I travel to Saint Charles, Missouri, in mid-July to attend her Cookie Art Competition, which was being filmed by the Food Network for an upcoming documentary. In past years, Usher’s competition had been held at the Oklahoma Sugar Art Show, hosted by Usher’s mentor and Food Network star Kerry Vincent.
In retrospect, though, my favorite cookie of the weekend belonged to Jen Naslund, whose company Defiant Dough is one of the oldest edible cookie dough products in the nation. Naslund hadn’t intended to enter the competition; she was only at the convention to promote her company, which she hopes to make “the Baskin-Robbins of the cookie dough industry.” But a few days before the show she’d felt the pull to give it a try.
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