Warsaw’s restaurants show EU convergence is about more than just capital | Europe
Last summer Warsaw became the latest and, at first appearances, least likely addition to the list. Varsovians took to it well. With dishes from 25 zloty for edamame beans to 170 zloty for the signature black-cod dish, the place was crammed most nights, lockdowns permitting. Nobu’s stash ofwas designed to last for 18 months; it was downed in three. The average spend on opening was higher than in the branch in Monte Carlo.
Nobu is the top end of Warsaw’s booming restaurant scene, which has turned from a stodgy affair into one of Europe’s most vibrant. Nolita, a fancy restaurant, allows patrons to feast on wasabi- and teriyaki-covered octopus. A glut of vegan restaurants has made the city an unlikely mecca for those who spurn animal products. Venues serving Polish fare have flipped a once joyless culinary culture into one that is varied and, at times, excellent.
There is also a greater push to return. After working in Michelin-starred restaurants in Britain and Denmark in the first half of his career, Robert Trzópek returned to Poland a decade ago. At that time, it was still tricky to find a market for fine dining. Now, however, his restaurant, Bez Gwiazdek, which each month serves food exclusively from a different region of Poland, is packed on a Tuesday night in August.
. Poland has, like its Western neighbours, become a country of mass immigration. Before the pandemic, in 2019, Poland issued 724,000 residency permits to people from outside the—around 260,000 more than Germany, the second-highest. To see the inflow’s effect, head to a bar or a restaurant in Warsaw, where the staff will usually be Belarusian or Ukrainian. Order a takeaway and the rider delivering it will often hail from South Asia.
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