Los Angeles discovers why Stanley Tucci likes Rome's Santo Palato
, would be a guest chef at, I immediately made a reservation. That’s because Cicolini made the best tripe dish I’ve ever eaten.In Rome this summer, I had the chance to eat at Santo Palato, which is a bit outside the city’s central tourist core.
But the restaurant is hardly unknown. If you saw the Rome episode ofyou saw Cicolini making a frittata for Tucci with chicken heart, liver and gizzards. She also made him two dishes that appeared on the Chi Spacca special menu: an oxtail meatball dusted with cocoa and served with peanut and lovage sauce, as well as the classic trippa alla Romana, which is cooked with tomatoes and mint. Sarah Cicolini’s oxtail meatball with peanut and lovage sauce, dusted with cocoa, a specialty of her Rome restaurant Santo Palato, served during a guest appearance at Chi Spacca in Los Angeles. But as good as her Roman tripe was at Chi Spacca, it was another tripe dish at her restaurant in Rome that was unlike any I’d had before. It was sheep tripe cooked with capers, anchovies, vinegar, rosemary, olives and onion. Cicolini has a deep understanding of traditional Italian dishes and the confidence to create her own dishes that build on the classics. Consider her maccheroncino with duck and sea urchin — a combination that sounds improbable but was absolutely delicious.Neither the sheep tripe nor the duck-and-sea-urchin pasta appeared at Chi Spacca, but she did serve her own take on classicgrano arso , the burnt wheat flour best known in Puglia. It gave the buns a deep cocoa color, the dessert version of her savory cocoa-flecked oxtail meatball earlier in the meal. She also used a bit of whole-wheat flour plus chopped green peppercorns and added pastry cream to the whipped cream, a trick Silverton liked because it added body to the cream. Cream-filled maritozzi made by Santo Palato’s Sarah Cicolini for a special dinner at Chi Spacca in Los Angeles.a classic dish perfected by Cicolini with mezze maniche, which are like short rigatoni. Silverton was impressed that Cicolini rendered the guanciale, or pork jowl, low and slow, possibly for as long as 45 minutes. And though some use Parmesan for their carbonara, Cicolini goes with tradition and prefers pecorino cheese. She likes 100% pecorino, and only adds Parmesan to adjust for saltiness. At Chi Spacca, the ratio was 90% pecorino and 10% Parmesan. The result had many in the room declaring Cicolini’s carbonara the best they’d ever eaten. I still love her tripe best, but I would never say no to her carbonara. Mezze maniche carbonara made by chef Sarah Cicolini of Rome’s Santo Palato, served at Chi Spacca in Los Angeles.Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most.Evan Funke, chef of Mother Wolf in Hollywood and Felix Trattoria in Venice, with his favorite salumi, mortadella.was rolled out on a cart with the splendor of a royal procession then ceremoniously sliced thin revealing translucent cubes of pork fat, arranged like a Modernist stained-glass window. I was in the heart of mortadella country, in the
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