The Anatomy of the Perfect Mexican American Wet Burrito

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The Anatomy of the Perfect Mexican American Wet Burrito
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Burritos La Palma’s wet burrito, or platillo especial, honors the culture of Mexican American combination burritos, which come with everything: stewed meat, salsa, cheese, rice, and beans (via eaterla)

Growing up in Stockton, California, in the ’70s, my earliest memories of wet burritos were at the few Mexican American restaurants like Mi Ranchito, Xochimilco, and Arroyo’s Cafe, the last of which was owned by my godfather’s family. Burritos were filled with one of the holy trinity of meaty Chicano stews — chile verde, chile colorado, or chile chicana — then stuffed with rice, beans, and shredded iceberg lettuce before being drowned in a gravy-like “special sauce.

In 1980, Bañuelos returned to his hometown of Jerez in the central Mexican state of Zacatecas and opened the first tortillería to sell flour tortillas. Previously the northern Mexican flatbread was unknown in the area. Later he moved into selling burritos, filling them with northern Mexican guisados, like birria de res, chicharrón , deshebrada , and beans and cheese.

To build the platillo especial, two flour tortillas are placed on a comal, before being filled with tangy beef birria. They’re then rolled and browned on the comal. At tacos de guisado stands, it’s common practice to order a pair of stews, which is why the platillo especial explodes with meaty flavors. José de Jesús’s wife, Elena Lugo de Bañuelos, designed the chile verde recipe, made with fruity, dried chiles as well as pork stewed in tart green chiles.

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