From comida criolla classics and fresh aguachiles to Roman-style pizza and fancy toasts, here’s where to eat in Puerto Rico’s buzzing capital
In San Juan, Puerto Rico, the fried alcapurrias and banana leaf-wrapped pasteles of comida criolla, the local blend of Indigenous Taíno, African, and Spanish ingredients and flavors, are everywhere. They are at the kiosks of Piñones and in the glossy restaurants of the city’s best chefs. But to come to Puerto Rico for only Puerto Rican food would be a disservice to the imagination.
This ever-growing dining and bar scene has thrived despite ongoing crises both natural and political. The archipelago has been under the control of the United States since 1898, and that colonial control has had long impacts on agriculture and culinary culture. Serving local produce requires commitment and the development of relationships with farmers, and the same goes for seafood and fishermen. Part of the Jones Act of 1920 requires all trade to be done on U.S.-owned boats staffed by U.S.
Note: The inclusion of restaurants offering dine-in service should not be taken as an endorsement for dining inside. Studies indicate a lower exposure risk to COVID-19 outdoors, but the level of risk is contingent on social distancing and other safety guidelines. Check with each restaurant for up-to-date information on dining offerings. For updated information on coronavirus cases while traveling in Puerto Rico, please visitAlicia Kennedy is a San Juan, Puerto Rico-based writer.
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