If you’re getting store-bought tortellini, make sure it’s the good kind.
Archer Farms Four-Cheese Tortellini, $4 for a 17-ounce package at TargetTo find the best store-bought tortellini, we first widened our search to include tortelloni—which is the same pasta shape, only larger.
At least, technically—we found some brands were labeled tortellini no matter the size of the pasta. Having a loose definition of "tortellini" allowed us to open up the search to more brands since every variety of each brand we tasted wasn't available in our local market.tortellini—no spinach, no artichoke, no mushroom, and certainly nothing already sauced. We included brands that were refrigerated, frozen, and dried—and for the record, we found no correlation between how the pasta was stored and whether or not we liked it; all three options were peppered throughout the top, middle, and bottom of our rankings.We began the test by attempting to cook each pasta in heavily salted, rapidly boiling water according to the suggested time on each package. What we found is that, in large part, the suggested times can't be trusted. Some pastas that suggested 15 minutes boiling time were done in 10, others that instructed to boil for 3 minutes were still tough after 6. The point is this: trust your gut. Dried tortellini will take the longest to cook—start checking them after 10 minutes and then gauge how much longer you think they'll need. Refrigerated pastas will cook the quickest; you should start checking them after 2 minutes. To test, keep a bowl of cold water next to your stove. Scoop out one piece of pasta when you think it's done and drop into the cold water to quickly cool it off so that you can take a bite. If you think it's ready, drain the pot and move on. If not, keep cooking. Finally, remember that if you are going to toss the pasta into a sauce on the stove, boil it until it's a little bit less done than you'd like the final pasta to be, since it will continue to cook and absorb moisture from the sauce. In the end, we cooked each pasta to taste–until the centers were warmed through and the pasta was al dente. Some of the more fragile tortellini split, expelling their cheesy innards before they were fully cooked . After the pasta was cooked, we tossed 350 grams of each pasta with 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil to keep the pasta from sticking. A panel of Epicurious editors and staff tasted the plain, cooked pasta warm in a blind tasting. No distinction was made between organic and non-organic products during testing.
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