This is the second Olympics to feature surfing, but it’s the first time competitors are riding waves that are a matter of “life or death,” according to professional big wave surfer Garrett McNamara.
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This year, surfers will be competing at Teahupo’o — part of the French Polynesian island of Tahiti that’s more than 9,000 miles from Paris.Teahupo’o can experience 40-50 foot waves, but it’s not just the size that makes the challenge unique — it’s also the large, shallow reef. “Once get close to the reef, the whole bottom drops out. And the water that's on the reef in front of you sucks off the reef somewhat like a waterfall and goes down below sea level. And then the wave curls over and the lip of the wave basically detonates on reef.”
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