The best thing to eat at SYKO, a Korean and Syrian restaurant in Windsor Terrace, is one of the best things our food critic Hannah Goldfield has ever eaten.
The best thing to eat at SYKO, a restaurant that opened last year, in Windsor Terrace, is one of the best things I’ve ever eaten: the Fatboy, an evocatively, and accurately, named sandwich. A thick, crisp-edged Korean-style scallion pancake with a mochi-like texture is layered with sticky white rice, frilly romaine lettuce, a few crunchy batons of, and a choice of protein—beef bulgogi, chicken bulgogi, or fried tofu strewn with kimchi.
The origin story of this glorious creation tells the origin story of the restaurant. In 2013, the siblings Mazen and Rosette Khoury moved, with their brother and their mother, from Syria to Brooklyn. That same year, Rosette met her now husband, James Kim, who is Korean American and grew up in Windsor Terrace, where his parents own a grocery store.
The Fatboy falls shy of fusion, as does SYKO , which is co-owned by the three Khoury siblings and Kim. Mazen, who devised the menu, experimented with combining elements of each cuisine but decided that he was better off presenting them side by side, like the syllables of the restaurant’s name. Behind the counter are two discrete sets of components: Korean on the left and Syrian on the right , an arrangement mirrored on the menu.
The Windsor Terrace restaurant is co-owned by two Syrian brothers, their sister, and her Korean American husband., small pancakes filled with brown sugar and cinnamon, and medjool dates stuffed with peanut butter, encased in dark chocolate, and rolled in rose petals or shredded coconut. On the wall above SYKO’s refrigerated-drinks case, a mural depicts the Manhattan street signs marking the bygone Little Syria neighborhood and the still thriving Koreatown .
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