In 'I Just Wanna Surf,' Gabriella Angotti-Jones dives deep into the way in which the cyclical nature of trauma and healing mirrors chasing a wave.
I’m floating on a longboard and the water is calm. The minimal wind or whitewash in the waves has the board gliding across the water, cutting through it like a smooth knife dipping into room-temperature butter. It’s “glassy,” in surfer speak. You can almost see your reflection. This brief moment of serenity is an ideal time to talk, to think, to process, because when the time does come to catch that wave, there won’t be room for much else. Not hesitation. Not second guessing.
Despite learning to surf as a child in San Clemente, Gabriella Angotti-Jones says it took years to feel surfing was hers. She sees “I Just Wanna Surf” as a reclamation of that her childhood. When I learned Gabriella was releasing the book, I sent her a text: “How would you feel about me going surfing with you?” I’ve written about surfing, heard friends talk about it for years — mostly using phrases like, “it’s hard to describe,” but this would be the first time I’d see for myself. G texts me back almost immediately. “Yesssss.”It started with Gabriella checking the wave report. We’d go to El Porto right before sunset, which isn’t her favorite, but it would do.
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