Dialogue remains among the most surreal locations in America for a modernist dinner.
of Dialogue in late 2017. It was heady stuff. The restaurant’s menu changes with winter, spring, summer and fall, but in the progression of 20 or so courses the meal also references the previous and forthcoming seasons. It was a fall menu that I first experienced; summery colors in the first few dishes drained away to muted tones and then concluded with a bleak, wintry landscape of chocolate, coconut and menthol.
If you’re in, Dialogue’s current summer menu is wonderful — cerebral as always, but also the sunniness of the ingredients brings a grounding warmth to the cooking. For me, recalling my first experiences, I can taste the evolution in Beran’s perspective. He moved here in 2016. It’s the great cliché that the Golden State transforms you, mellows you, maybe makes you more aware of the land. As a fellow new transplant, there are truths in there.
Jump ahead to one of my favorite courses, right in the meal’s midpoint: “Three years of peaches.” When Beran arrived from the Midwest, his first restaurant space for Dialogue, in downtown L.A., fell through; as he searched for a new space, he spent his time acclimating to the bounty of California, canning and preserving as he went along. Beran builds the current dish around pork belly: He glazes it with a sweet-and-sour sauce using peach pulp that was a byproduct of peach and rose vinegar.
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