Golden-brown gnocchi, anyone?
that I was making a false comparison. Instead of judging store-bought dumplings against homemade ones, I should consider them a different ingredient entirely—and cook them accordingly.
When you boil store-bought gnocchi like you would fresh, they have a tendency to get waterlogged and gummy. But, as Ali taught me, when you cook them in the oven or on the stove, with a bit of oil to facilitate browning, they crisp on the outside and stay chewy and soft in the middle, sort of like pan-fried Korean rice cakes or yaki mochi.
No matter what store-bought gnocchi you use, they’re not feather-light or pillow-soft as the best potato gnocchi ought to be—but, in the end, that’s exactly the point.
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