Chefs in the Swedish capital are bringing inspiration from travels and living abroad to their food at new Stockholm restaurants, from a Spanish dessert with Nordic berries and Italian vinegar to Roman-style pizza and a Parisian bistro. Here's why Stockholm restaurants should be on your travel radar.
A fresh class of restaurants is bringing global flavors, great value, and a more casual approach to this Swedish food scene.Simon Bajada is one of the most prominent and influential figures in the world of food and travel photography.
A former chef, he has authored three cookbooks on Baltic and Nordic cuisine.Contrary to certain culinary stereotypes, hungry visitors to Stockholm aren’t limited to pickled weeds served with moose trotter over a bed of smoked forest moss. This dogmatic approach to local produce was the hallmark of the New Nordic philosophy that dominated the food scene in the Swedish capital in the mid-aughts. No longer. Today, a new cohort of chefs is looking outward, reaching beyond the Nordic pantry and bringing global inspiration — and a more casual approach — back to the city from travels and stints abroad. The locavore mentality hasn’t vanished, though — far from it. Many chefs continue to source whole animals from nearby farms, forage wild ingredients, and preserve seasonal produce for the long winter months. At, on the island of Södermalm, four lively young chefs change the menu so frequently that they may soon wear out their chalkboard. On a visit last summer, I devoured a flatbread with billowing edges, layered with zucchini and fresh cheese. The dish was reminiscent of a pizza bianco, with a distinct Nordic take: a topping of pickled chanterelle mushrooms and dill flowers. “We’re inspired by our suppliers,” co-owner Jonas Helgesson told me as I dug into a salad of Swedish tomatoes with a tomato-water beurre blanc, sweet grapes, and figs. “When a new ingredient arrives, we start brainstorming, trading ideas back and forth in a creative tennis match. We tweak dishes as we go, and once they’re perfected, we move on to the next creation.”hotel takes the commitment to purveyors to another level. Chef Leo Frodell has spent over a decade sourcing ingredients from trusted producers — including animals he preorders before they’re even born. “By knowing the proteins available to us, we are able to easily plan how we construct dishes,” he says. “We can be a lot more spontaneous when we’re working with more readily available ingredients such as fruits, vegetables, and fish.” Frodell’s laser focus on local producers blends with a global sensibility: A meal there might end with a fig-leaf flan topped with raspberries and aged balsamic, the inherently Spanish dessert enhanced by Nordic berries and finished with Italian vinegar. Many talented chefs have passed through Ett Hem, and Frodell loves seeing former colleagues open their own restaurants. That includes Patric Kling of, where he, Erik Eriksson, and Adrià Lorenzo have found a way to run a quality restaurant without sacrificing a life outside the kitchen by focusing on set menus, minimal staff, and an affordable location. The day of my visit, I marvel at a salad of fresh peas in the pod, peeled tomatoes, flower petals, and leaves so vibrant they look freshly picked, all doused in a pork jus and served with oyster cream. The dish glistens in the low summer-evening sun that only high-latitude cities like Stockholm get to enjoy., managed by former Ett Hem sommelier Fredrik Westlund, caters to a discerning crowd craving more than just cheap beer. Dishes like Welsh rarebit nod to England, but it’s not a gastropub per se. “We focus on quality proteins and cater to Swedish diners’ love for sauce,” says co-owner Joakim Beurling, adding, with a smile, “maybe too much sauce — it keeps us busy in the kitchen!” Austerely plated dishes — like pork steak in a pool of sauce Diane or a starter of half a Norwegian crab simply served with toast, lemon, and mayo — let the ingredients speak for themselves., led by Joel Aronsson, who previously worked at the critically acclaimed Fäviken in northern Sweden’s wilderness. Time in Paris inspired him to create a relaxed yet refined setting where diners can enjoy rich entrées like langoustines with Café de Paris butter as well as more modest plates like isterband, a Swedish sausage of barley and pork, or radicchio with Comté cheese and pistachios.
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