When Maria Helena Iturralde, a native of La Paz, was studying at GW there was hardly anywhere in the District to get salteñas, or Bolivian dishes. Starting next week, Foggy Bottom will finally have a Bolivian restaurant: her own.
The DC area is home to the largest population of Bolivian-Americans in the US. So, in parts of northern Virginia, it’s easy to find Bolivia’s iconic street food: the juicy, sweet-and-savory empanadas called salteñas.
“Our idea was to bring Bolivian street food to a more diverse group,” Iturralde says. “It’s very strategically located, so that we can grab commuters from all over the place.” As with soup dumplings, making salteñas also poses a structural challenge: how do you encase a liquid with dough? Bolivia’s solution is gelatin, both natural and powdered. Once cooled, the broth thickens into a jelly that can easily be tucked into the dough and baked.
Iturralde, a longtime caterer, is also expanding her repertoire for her first brick-and-mortar eatery. Papas rellenas and pukacapas will make appearances, as will several sandwiches. Iturralde’s sandwich de chola with roast pork, ají rojo, and pickled onions is fairly traditional. But her sajta-slathered fried chicken sandwich is her own invention.
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