Sonoma County farm strikes black truffle gold after 9 years of waiting

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Sonoma County farm strikes black truffle gold after 9 years of waiting
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The Alexander Valley Truffle Farm has found its first truffle almost a decade after planting its truffle orchard in Geyserville, Calif.

Fran Angerer, right and wife Robin inspect the first truffle the family found on their Geyserville orchard.

For years, the worldwide truffle market has been limited primarily to southern Europe, specifically France, Italy and Spain. But 30-plus years ago Californiaat a truffle farmRecently countries such as Australia, China, Chile, New Zealand and South Africa have started trying to produce their own. And there’s a growing number of farms in the United States producing truffles, many of them located in Northern California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho and North Carolina.

Lefevre also provided the Angerers with the hazelnut trees that grow on their farm. Starting with the seedlings, he inoculated the trees withspores and watched them grow at his farm in Oregon for a year before sending them to Geyserville. Seven years into the operation, Nathan said, they started to lose hope. Nevertheless, in 2019, they planted another truffle orchard, this time in Healdsburg, Calif. Instead of using hazelnut trees, Lefevre supplied the Angerers with 200 English oak and 200 stone pine trees inoculated with“Nobody knows how or why or what causes the fruit to reproduce,” Nathan said.

But even though multiple parties were interested in buying the truffle, the Angerers decided not to sell. They sent a sliver to Lefevre and then they called Dustin Valette, the Michelin-starred “The aroma, for being just one day old, was beautifully perfumed with an intense nose to it, and the flavor was outstanding,” the chef said. “I wouldn’t say it was the best truffle I’ve ever had, but it was definitely in that top five echelons of best ones I’ve ever had.”Chef Dustin Valette used the Angerers’ truffle to create this steak tartare dish for the family.

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