Make a large batch, spread out the smoked shrimp, seafood boil style, on a paper-lined picnic table, set a bowl of sauce in the middle, and go to town.
In a large bowl, mix the shrimp with the salt and pepper, coating them evenly. Cover and refrigerate for 3 hours.Meanwhile, start the sauce: In a blender, combine the chiles, garlic, lime juice, and salt and blend until the bits are the size of a match head. Transfer to a small bowl, cover, and keep at room temperature.Heat a smoker to 225°F.
Rinse the seasoning off the shrimp and pat dry with paper towels. Place the shrimp in the smoker and smoke until they turn dark coral, 20 to 25 minutes.While the shrimp are smoking, stir the sugar and fish sauce into the sauce, then taste and adjust the seasoning with more fish sauce if needed. Aim for sour and hot first, then salty and just a tad bit of sweetness. Stir in the cilantro.
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