Small plates rule at two new Chinese restaurants from Peter Chang

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Small plates rule at two new Chinese restaurants from Peter Chang
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Peter Chang Gaithersburg and NiHao in Arlington represent the latest in the ever-growing collection of restaurants from the former Chinese embassy chef.

An array of small plates at Peter Chang Gaithersburg, which offers Peter Chang beer, clockwise from left: garlic cucumber salad, sweet and sour fish, diced beef, salt and pepper shrimp, salmon spring roll and dry-fried red pepper chicken. . Rest assured, the onetime Chinese Embassy chef doesn’t have me on retainer. It’s just that he opens places to eat like the rest of us open email. Or so it seems.

garlic sauce, and chile-massaged pork ribs with leeks, slivers of garlic and crinkled fried potatoes were so good, I felt like sharing them with the strangers who were merely drinking NiHao’s assets. I easily could have. The small plates are enough food for two to split, although some dishes might test your ability to share.That’s my biggest problem with NiHao: so many choices, so little time. We’re talking nearly 50 dishes on the all-day menu.

The menu invites everyone to the party, deploying symbols to flag vegan options and alert diners to dishes with nuts and gluten-free possibilities. The most attractive feature of all, though, may be the prices. NiHao’s small plates, big on flavor, average about $9 each.distinguishes itself with a sense of intimacy. Before diners turn into the airy dining room, they pass a wall of family photographs. One captures the famous chef at the 2016 James Beard awards in Chicago, where he was a finalist for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic. Another finds him hoisting his granddaughter, London, now 19 months old.

The modest elegance of the restaurant surfaces in accommodating service, a fringe of greenery over the windows and the background music. I remember being greeted by the theme song to “Grease” at NiHao — and tinkling piano music at Peter Chang Gaithersburg.

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