Roasted beef tenderloin can be the decadent star of a great meal. Our method yields a nicely browned crust, an ultra-tender center, and perfectly pink meat from edge to edge.
Kenji is the former culinary director for Serious Eats and a current culinary consultant for the site. He is also a New York Times food columnist and the author of The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science.Salting the roast and letting it rest uncovered overnight makes for deeper seasoning, plus a drier surface for more efficient browning.Basting the tenderloin with browned butter flavored with thyme and shallots enhances browning and gives it more flavor.
I used to be one of those "wave the steak in the direction of the fire and serve it to me" types. The rarer, the better. But when I actually started thinking critically about what was in my mouth, rather than letting whatever minor sense of machismo I had get the better of me, I realized that rarer does notequal better, and I'm willing to bet that anybody who currently thinks so could be convinced otherwise.
So my goal was to figure out ways to speed up the browning process so that the tenderloin wouldn't have time to overcook. It took a two-pronged approach to get there.The first step to better browning is to realize that wet things don't brown. Because water evaporates at 212°F , until you've fully desiccated the surface of a piece of meat, it's very difficult to get it to rise beyond that temperature.
Once the whole tenderloin had been slow-cooked, I decided to try to bring some of the flavor and richness of the pan-seared version to the oven-roasted version, figuring that some browned butter might also help it brown faster while providing a lubricating and insulating layer of fat on the exterior.
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