Creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski upheld the French house’s standard of sublime craft and stealth chic—and then some—this season.
not a hair out of place
kind of house. Supreme luxury and exceptionalism define the label’s proprietary brand of savoir faire. The company’s constant quest for perfection continues to pay off—last month, it announced a 23 percent surge in fourth-quarter sales and a one-time year-end bonus of €4,000 to be paid to each of its 19,700 employees for all their success.
Even so, each model’s head of hair in the brand’s fall 2023 show looked extra lustrous and glossy, styled with natural nonchalance. It wasn’t just a collective really good hair day. Creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski was thinking about hair, how it can be twisted and braided, as she designed the collection, which upheld Hermès’s standard of sublime craft and stealth chic—and then some.
“Hair is about identity,” Vanhee-Cybulski said after the show. “It’s a strong feminine attribute, but you can be male or female and your hair can express your beautiful side.” She noted that throughout history, hair has symbolized power, seduction, and magic. That idea was woven into the clothes through literal references—braided knit sweaters; shimmering shearlings—and evocative expressions, such as jackets gathered in the back like a loose ponytail.
Suede knee-high boots and bags, including structured horsehair styles, buckets, and Birkins, finished every look with monochromatic rigor. Vanhee-Cybulski wanted “solidity, for being centered,” she said. “This collection is more introverted than the last one.” But this introvert had serious powers of allure.
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