Beloved crispy potato pancakes always a classic, but recipes broaden repertoire with new flavors, colors and textures
While most of the country is busy buying and decorating Christmas trees, putting up lights and anticipating cookie exchanges and yule logs, the Jewish community — at least the Ashkenazi, or Eastern European part of it — will be pulling out theirThat’s because during Hanukkah, which this year begins on Dec. 18, after the candles on the menorah are lit and despite the roast chicken or brisket glistening on the table, the big meal is all about those potato pancakes.
Gold Finch’s executive chef Jeff Armstrong recommends using a cast-iron pan to fry your latkes at home, using an oil like canola that has a neutral taste and can tolerate high temperatures. First, you’ll put them in a colander over a bowl, mix with salt, and drain for about 10 minutes. Then mound the grated potatoes in the middle of a tea towel or cheesecloth and wring out the rest of whatever moisture remains. Some people, like my mom and I, will do this over the bowl where the potatoes had initially drained, let the liquid settle, pour off the water at the top and spoon back the remaining potato starch to help bind the pancakes.
He also said that the heat for the potato latkes and the delicata squash latkes should be no higher than medium. Basically, high enough to allow them to get crispy but not so high that they’ll burn. Because beets have almost 10 times as much natural sugar as potatoes, you’ll want to keep the heat lower, or you’ll risk them burning on the outside before the inside is cooked. My advice is to cover the pan with a splatter screen for safety and to contain the mess on your cooktop.
Garnish latkes with sour cream and applesauce. You can also top with smoked salmon, creme fraiche and capers or pastrami and horseradish cream.
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