Shade Thomas-Fahm transformed Nigerian fashion

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Shade Thomas-Fahm transformed Nigerian fashion
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Shade Thomas-Fahm was one of several African designers to embrace heritage cloth as a way of asserting national identity in the post-independence era

little to diminish Victoria Folashade “Shade” Thomas-Fahm’s glamorous persona. The 88-year-old fashion designer looks regal in a velvet and matching dress in the emerald of her country’s tropical forests. In Yoruba, one of Nigeria’s main languages, Folashade loosely translates as “to be honoured with a crown”. The name suits Mrs Thomas-Fahm well: she is hailed as Nigeria’s first modern fashion designer and credited with formalising the country’s garment industry in the early 1960s.

Like many Nigerians of her generation, Mrs Thomas-Fahm’s early years and cultural taste were shaped by time spent in Britain, the colonial “mother country”. She left Lagos for London in 1953 at the age of 19, intending to become a nurse. Instead, her interest in clothes was piqued on Edgware Road and she enrolled at St Martin’s School of Art to pursue a career in fashion.

a ready-to-wear fashion line using Nigerian textiles, an innovative and unprecedented move. Spotting the economic potential of Nigeria’s fashion industry, she opened one of the first garment factories in Lagos, run according to the efficient production techniques she had observed in London. “We wanted to make a mark, to apply what we had learned abroad,” Mrs Thomas-Fahm explains.

Mrs Thomas-Fahm had returned from London to Lagos in 1960, the year that Nigeria and 16 other African countries declared independence. The liberationist zeal that was sweeping the continent infused her designs too: she was one of several African designers to embrace heritage cloth as a way of asserting national identity. One of Mrs Thomas-Fahm’s pieces on display at the V&A—a floor-length robe resplendent in gold—is crafted froma textile woven by the Ebira people in central Nigeria.

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