Vogue’s definitive guide to the biggest watch trends 2023.
Watchmakers’ enduring love affair with the 1960s and 1970s shows no sign of slowing, if 2022’s spate of end-of-year launches are any indication. Cartier’s reissuing of its darling Pebble watch on the occasion of its 50th birthday was a boon to collectors, as pent-up demand for the round watch with a square dial reached fever pitch last year, when an original 1972 model fetched around £359,000 at Phillips.
Meanwhile, a collaboration between Zenith and skiwear label Fusalp is not so much the Swiss watchmaker’s first fashion partnership as it is rooted in a kindred, shared history. In 1966, Fulsap invented the first competition ski suit, which the French national ski team wore when they won a record number of medals at the 1966 Portillo Alpine World Championships.
Finally, the rebirth of the Swiss watch and jewellery brand, Charles Zuber, is making its mark with a clear 1960s vibe: the steel watch features a jaunty cushion shape case paired with a striking sunburst dial, all set on an architectural three-link bracelet. The late Charles Zuber made his name lending his pen to the defining brands of the Swinging Sixties – Harry Winston, Audemars Piguet and Piaget among them – and his reimagined designs are sure to catch on with the style set 60 years on.
Audemars Piguet is leading the charge on the wristwatch front: its new Code 11.59 Starwheel may be time-only, but it tells it via a wandering hours mechanism, a roaming satellite-style invention from the – wait for it – 17th century. Finally, the storied Swiss clockmaker L’Epée is really only still here 183 years later thanks to a recent surge in cool, mechanical wonders that have cross-collecting appeal with fans of avant-garde indie brands like MB&F and Chanel.
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